My husband loves me. We were looking at a 5-hour bus ride from Alicante to Granada. And as much as we love us some Spanish trains, we’re not big fans of the buses: they’re just not as comfortable. So he rented a car, drove us to Granada, (literally) dropped us off at the hotel, then drove back to Alicante.
We stayed at the NH Collection Victoria, where we had stayed before. It’s in a great location, the rooms are very comfortable, and the staff is great.
Monday night, we roamed…… We made our way to a side street, where we discovered Bodegas Castaneda. What a find! We ordered the grilled cheese and the smoked fish and were about to order more when the waiter stopped us: “Basta. Is enough for two.” And it was! We managed to finish the cheese, but not the fish.
Tuesday we tackled la Alhambra. It was no less spectacular the second time. Todd and I went in February, when it was in its winter state. This time: the COLOR! Much easier to enjoy the second time when I didn’t feel compelled to take hundreds of pictures. I decided to focus on the colors outside in the gardens and the ceilings inside the Nasrid Palace. I think the thematic focus worked out well.
Near the end of our tour of the Generalife, we encountered a dig team: a group of students from American and British universities were working with local students to uncover a glass works site. This was their first day, and they were excited, even though all they were doing was lugging water to make mud to clear off the “ugly” detritus from the 1960s that covered the original site. They agreed that their excitement would probably wane by the end of the week.
After spending a couple of hours in the Generalife, we stopped at the Parador for a bite of lunch. Another tasty cheese plate, a couple of revitalizing Cokes, and a spectacular view of the Generalife—but the service, as we noted on our last visit, was slow.
On to the Nasrid Palace.
And, of course, the tile:
Tactical error on my part: we didn’t have any water with us while touring the Nasrid Palace. We were pretty miserable by the time we were done. We staggered into the Hotel America and had water in the sitting room (the patio restaurant was full). As an added bonus, we had entertainment: an 80-something-year-old woman who was taking care of a 90-something-year-old man. He got up shortly after we sat down, and she delightedly explained to us that he was going to the bathroom-alone. Her accent was British, but they lived in Spain and had come to the Alhambra for an overnight visit. She announced that she conversed with strangers and proceeded to do just that. At one point, she mused that she wished there was someone who could plait her (long, gray) hair. She asked us if either of us could do it for her. We demurred. When we finished off our bottles of water, she offered us her glass. Again we demurred. So many questions about her, and about them…
We shopped before catching the C3 back to the hotel. The final C3 stop is in front of the University of Granada’s bookstore. Of course we had to go in. It was there I realized that I didn’t have the two bags of souvenirs that were my responsibility. The bus driver that was there when I realized it told us not to panic, that our bus would be back down in 5-10 minutes. He was right, but there were no stray bags inside. That bus driver hadn’t seen or been given anything. The other bus driver pulled up behind her and came to check on us. Nothing for it but to take the bus back up to the Alhambra. I backtracked and found them: in the store where I had popped in to get us some Cokes for the trip back to town. They had stashed them for us. Much gracias-ing and cheek kissing.
Finally back to the hotel for a shower and a drink. Then, at the recommendation of the hotel desk clerk, we headed for the river (a misnomer indeed) and Las Titas. Another wonderful meal in a lovely restaurant.
Wednesday we had a leisurely morning before heading off to the Cathedral. Another second visit for me.
We returned to Bodegas Castaneda for dinner and opted to eat inside. In chatting with the waiter, we found that both Bodegas Castaneda and Las Titas had the same owner. No wonder we loved them both! A little friendly conversation netted us several free dishes and some delicious drinks.
All in all, not bad for a second trip to Granada!
Tips for visiting the Alhambra:
Book your tickets ahead of time, especially in summer; to pick them up, you’ll need the credit card you booked them with. Bypass the ticket lines and go past the book shop to the kiosks on your right. The red machines will take you through the ticket-printing process.
Allow a minimum of 2 hours to explore the Generalife before your ticketed time. I’d suggest 3-3 ½ and take a break between. The Parador restaurant has a lovely view (don’t be in a hurry). The Hotel America was open this time as well, and they have a nice garden restaurant area.
I recommend getting in line for the palace 15-20 minutes ahead of your ticketed time. Take water! We completely forgot, and we were miserable by the time we finished our tour.