A 25-minute train ride, €15 per person round trip, and we were in Modena, with its tree-lined streets and quiet ambience.

First stop: Enoteca Ducale. A real find, in several ways, and we just happened to stroll past it and back up to go in. A tasting of several balsamics, and of course we went ahead and purchased. One of my rules: if you find something you like and want, get it then – you’ll likely not find it again, and you certainly can’t count on finding your way back there, especially on a day trip.

Then to the Piazza Roma, followed by the Piazza Grande and its duomo.

Headed toward Mercato Coperto Albinelli, we found a hat store, and Todd bought a Panama hat (not a Stetson, although they carried them – humorous to us Texans).

A stroll through the mercato. Then a second stroll through the mercato. We could have had lunch there, but it would have involved too many decisions, so we proceeded to the restaurant recommended by the balsamic guy.

What a lunch at Danilo Ristorante! We opted to eat inside, and that was the best decision we could have made. We were quite obviously the only non-locals there. Nonna adopted us. She’s worked there 32 years. She had an English-speaking waiter help us with our initial order, then she took over. After we had finished lunch, she brought us a plate of cookies—made fresh by her that morning—and she convinced us to order dessert. The tiramisu was a life-changer. Then she brought marinated cherries, and wouldn’t leave us alone until every one of them was gone. Then Nocino, the house-made walnut-coffee liqueur.

But we weren’t done yet. The couple sitting behind us beckoned us to follow them. An older couple and four of us, we took a chance. Professor Arrigo Guiglia and his wife took us through the Jewish quarter and talked about the war, then took us to a private Jewish museum on Via Francesco Rismondo and gave us a private tour. So many treasures, it brought tears to my eyes. And he and his wife were so welcoming and giving, even though they spoke no English and Mark’s Italian was basic. This is the kind of thing we treasure about our travel adventures.     

Mark and Vicki headed back to Bologna while we went to the Ferrari Museum. I enjoyed a glass of prosecco while Todd toured. Review: interesting, but not worth the €16 admission.

Back to the train station and back to Bologna. All of Modena was easily walkable.

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